Solo epics

I was crook earlier in the year and went to the beach to chill out and found this. I was soo bummed not to bring my board. I think I would have paddled out no matter how sick I was. This guy must be crazily stoked to have it all to himself!

Fun north coast waves.

5:30 wake up to head north for a fun surf on the new 9'1" Mctavish. Picked it up second hand from Byron at the start of the holidays. It is an older Jason Blewitt Pro Performance model. Im still coming to grips with riding a board that big after only riding short boards up until now. Loving it! Seems to handle both the smaller playful waves and the heavier, meatier, faster waves. Will post photos of it soon. There was only one other person in the water when Chris and I first paddled out. I took these photos just before we went into town to pay a visit to the bakery for breakfast.

Paddled out again a little too soon after breakfast and nearly saw it again. Not so good but still had an epic surf with only a few guys out!